Effective Climbing Training

Effective Climbing Training

Complete Training Manual for Any Climber

I peeled off again falling onto the mat. I lay there sprawled wondering if I can ever get better. I’m in pretty good shape and strong, but V1 was my top gear. I even had to fight for the easy routes. I’m watching this guy crush a V7 like a circus monkey. I wanted to do that. I wanted to climb as well as I can walk.

Climbing is exactly what you need to do to get better at climbing (it will take some time), but if you need to get better faster you have to train for it. Climbing just by itself will often lead to huge plateaus. After hitting that road block I researched the internet to see if I could any information that would help me get better. And that’s when I found Brian West’s “Climbing to the Top.”

Brain West was just like me, he struggled and struggled to get better. First he talked to climbers at the gym, and all they said was “climb,” and that didn’t help him much. Everything changed when he got a hold of experts, and they taught him what he was doing wrong and what he should do RIGHT! This book is different because West went through the tough growing pains of not being a naturally good climber like I have. And most importantly he overcame them all with the right kind of climbing training. Look at his amazing eBook and you can too.

You will learn:

• A complete training program for your favorite style of climbing.
• 3 Key Principles to create any training program, without falling flat.
• 7 Secrets to climbing smart and effectively.
• Increase your pull strength by 10-30% fast.
• A proven method to increase your flexibility, and step-by-step process of keeping yourself injury free.
•  Design and fine tune your diet to climb your absolute best.

Click Here To Order

I know that you may have some concerns about this eBook. I know I did, so allow me to address them. The first thing that I noticed is the book contained no pictures. After reading it though I realized that I already know the exercises described, I didn’t need pictures to understand it. Plus his descriptions are well written. Mr. West also didn’t want to overload your computer with megabytes of information that pics commonly take up. Not only that his nearest competitor has no pics either and Brian’s eBook is half the price.

Another thing I was worried about was, is it accurate? I’ve personally used it and my climbing ability has already jumped forward in both technique and personal strength. If you follow Brian’s advice you will become a much better climber, and fast! You will progress three grades better just like the book says.

And if you’re still having reservations you have the 60 day ‘Can’t Lose’ money back guarantee. Here’s what Brian says:

60 Day "Can't Lose" Guarantee

If in the next 60 days you don't improve your climbing by 3-7 grades...if other rock climbers don't beg you to share your rock climbing training secerts...if your friends and family don't corner you and DEMAND to know what your 'secret' is for quickly becoming a better stronger rock climber...

...I'll buy the Training for Rock Climbing Course back from you and...

You Can Keep The Training for Rock Climbing Course, My Exact Training Program and the other Bonus Reports Just For Your Trouble!

And if you’re still having reservations read what Tim Jenkins a customer and enthusiastic reader of the eBook.

“All I can say is THANK YOU! This info is priceless... In less than 1 week after learning about your training and climbing system, I improved my climbing and strength! I'm so surprised (I mean shocked!) at how unbelievably easy this is and I can't wait to try out the other techniques and training ideas. Now I wonder why didn't someone tell me about this sooner?"

- TIM JENKINS

With this order you will be the talk of the climbing gym and the rock alike. If you follow Brian’s Advice you will also feel as good as you look on the wall all day long. Today you could begin your journey of learning to master climbing in the comfort of your own home in 15 minutes or less.

Click Here To Order

Ueli Steck

Ueli Steck is a 35 year old climber from Switzerland that excels in pretty much every kind of climbing, but his specialty is alpine climbing.  He’s not well known in the United States, but he is a major celebrity in his homeland, Switzerland.  Ueli made a name for himself, but in 2004 he free soloed Excalibur (5.10d), a 740 ft crag in Switzerland that pushed himself to star status. In Switzerland, climbers are treated by their fellow citizens the same way as basketball and football players in the United States; Ueli Steck is a renowned figure of Alpine Climbing.

Finishing the North Face of the Edge in 3 hours and 54 minutes was one of the most impressive things that he has done; this destroyed the previous record by 46 minutes. That was quite an achievement done by for Steck, but he just wasn’t impressed with himself; he knew he could have done better.  Known for his already grueling training schedule, he went to the Swiss Federal Institute of Sports Magglinger (SFISM), where athletes around the world test their fitness level; when he first entered, he was out of shape. Instead of being discouraged, Steck took action and climbed toward the apex within his own ability.  He set out to vitalize himself through more advanced exercises by training like an Olympic athlete. This included working with a team of experts; a nutritionist, workout trainer, and scientific-cognitive trainer; in order to advance his fitness level and skills as far as he could take them. 

One year later, while tackling the North Face of the Edge again, he shaved another hour off his previous record.  The North Face of the Edge is just over 1,800 meters high, almost twice as high the legendary El Capitan of Yosemite. The landscape of the rock is “tricky and variable,” with lots ice and snow packed up against the surface. He mostly free soloed, but belayed himself in patches during the climb.  Watching Ueli climb towards his apex in climbing is like watching an Alpha Wolf plow through rugged heights and the sharp air of the alps.
Sources:
Climbing Magazine
Mountain Hardware
YouTube
YouTube

Free Soloing with Alex Hannold

Absolutely crazy, I don’t think I could ever do that.  Climb those mountains as beautiful as they are without a rope.  I have a lot of respect for people who free solo climb though, and they are always so calm. 

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Urban German Climbing

Okay so they’re speaking German and they didn’t bother to convert what they were saying into English subtitles.  The climbing in this video is way cool.  I get the feeling that from watching this video that Germans have way more freedom than we do in America, for climbing at least.  In the US I think the law would stop them or heavily regulate all those routes.  Again these guys are cool so check it out.

Campus Boarding

Here is a video done by Sonnie J Trotter a Canadian climber. This is a great video showing strength, power and variation for working the campus board.  In fact I don’t think I have found a better video on YouTube for campus board training.  This is not exactly a video that is showing a how to use a campus board, but rather Sonnie is show casing what he can do personally and what it takes to be a pro climber. 

And that’s the very reason that most climbers think that beginners shouldn’t do campus of training because it has a high degree of injury your joints and tendons.  I agree that if a beginner and even intermediate climbers shouldn’t train the campus board like Sonnie or any pro for that matter.  Beginner and intimidate climbers can use it to train on it, but they can’t do moves that the experts and pros do.  They will definitely get hurt.   Know your limitations; know what you can do and what you can’t do. The general rule of thumb is starting real slow and easy, in fact most climbers usually feel like they are under training.  That “no pain, no gain” mentality that works so well with lifting weights will cause you nothing but popped tendons and messed up joints when climbing in general, and campusing specifically.   Here’s a video I have featured in a post yesterday that shows how beginners should campus.  Beginners should do more to focus on their technique and breathing; however I don’t find anything wrong with getting yourself physically ready to climb.

The Campus Board

Campus board training is more for advanced climbers than it is for beginners.  It is a great resource to build that extra power, and strength that you need for climbing.    This type of training was invented by Wolfgang Güllich, one of the best sports climbers in history.  The name “Campus” comes from a gym he trained at in Nurnberg, Germany called “The Campus Center.”  He had come up with a new method of training just to send a route named Action Directe that required hand strength that no one in the world had at that time.  The climb required that he make considerable gains in both strength and power.  



Climbing up the walls again

http://www.flickr.com/photos/michal/287819603/ 

 The Action Directe route requires the climber to start with a shallow one finger hold and dyno off of that into another one finger hold.  Güllich's original sequence was a series of 16 holds that featured mostly one fingered and two fingered holds.  Words can fall short of how hard this climb is, so check out this video of Iker Pou's send on this route.  And you’ll get an idea why the campus board was invented, and why most people recommend it only for advanced climbers.  Here’s another video that is good for climbers who are just starting out as beginners and want to learn to campus.

Training for Climbing

I’m not a big fan of the music that was picked, but just watch and see how this guy was campusing.  Not at all a beginners workout, but it gives you a pretty good idea of what you can expect from campusing.  If you are a beginner keep in mind that should not push yourself like this guy here because campusing can lead to a high rate of injury in the oints or tendons, especially for people who haven’t conditioned themselves for it.  In fact it is recommended that beginners should only campus once a week.  It's good to train hard, but over doing it can lead to an injury.  Enjoy the video.

Training for Climbing Video

Cub Cave

There is just something about this cave and this route that seem untouched, and secluded.  Being that bolts and chalk marks are definitely visible, so there’s no denying that people have been there.  In my mind caves have always represented something that needs to be discovered and explored.  It has been found a while ago, but it’s still a great climb.  So watch Rupesh Chhagan climbing Thieving Texas Scum a 5.13.

Action Directe

You could tell that the narrator himself is moved by the climb and what when into it just to get to the top, and frankly so am I.  This route, Action Directe is widely recognized as the first 5.14d (9a), and was first climbed by Wolfgang Güllich who had created this climb.  And he invented the campus board as a form of training just to complete this route.  Campus board training is now considered a staple for climbing training that’s helps you get the job done.  This route was created over fifteen years ago and still considered one of the toughest climbs ever created. And only fifteen people have actually completed it.  Just watch the video and you'll see what I mean.  

Pro Tips – Finger Strength

Here is Jared Roth.  He seems a little aloof at first, but you can tell he’s a pro climber.  He gives an interesting perspective on developing hand strength.  And again I can’t do it justice explaining what is said in the video. Here are the bullet points on getting that iron grip.

1. Deadhang on edges
2. Capitalize on the power you already have.
3. Try to do the absurd.

Jared Roth Pro Tips - Finger Strength

Deep Water Solo Climbing - Red Bull Psicobloc Oympos

I just found this video done by Red Bull, and I think I have found another activity to put on my bucket list.  I can’t think of a better way to climb.  You’re free soloing, just over a large body of water.  That free feeling of climbing without ropes, or safeties just you and the rock.  Falling still sucks, but you won’t plunge to your death, you’ll hit the cold sting of failure when you hit the water.  Even failure here looks exhilarating.   

Deep Water Solo Climbing - Red Bull Psicobloc Oympos

Pro Tips - Slopers

Interesting video I never knew that there was so much to just holding on to a sloper.  These are definitely more advanced techniques, but expert climber Steven Jeffery lays out his five tips to sticking to them.  I could do no justice in writing out what he means, so just watch the video.

1. Get strong open handed.
2. Find the plumb line.
3. Use opposition.
4. Start movement from the lower body.
5. Fool yourself.

Pro Tips - Slopers

Street Climbing

I am gaining huge respect for the buildering community.  In this video you will see this London based parkour and street climber do some amazing things like climbing up brick walls, and finding the tiniest seams and cracks in concrete and ascend to the top of the building.  I am continually surprised and even amazed by the climbing, buildering, and parkour communities, and this is just another example.  I would be surprised if you’re not at least impressed with his abilities.  The video is off-center in the way it’s produced, but it’s definitely worth watching.  So check out this video from bobbyatopk. 

video Street Climbing by bobbyatopk

American Grading System

Bouldering

The American grading system for bouldering commonly called the V scale.  The V grade was created by John ‘Vermin’ Sherman,  and "v" in vermin is what gives the scale it's name.  Sherman created the scale while climbing in the Hueco Tanks in Texas, and for the most part his scale replaced the older B grade system.  Because Sherman’s influence in the 80's and 90's made bouldering boom in popularity, and as bouldering boomed so did his grading system.    The V grade starts at VB (B for basic) then to V0, V1, going up sequentially to V16.  This grade scale only covers difficulty, and does not factor in height, or danger.  Although, sometimes the higher bouldering problems are referred to ‘Highball’ problems to let climbers know how high it can be.

Climbing

The Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) grading system is used when climbing anything other than bouldering like, top roping, lead climbing, free climbing, etc. This grading system has been around since the 1930’s, but has grown and changed a lot as the years progressed.

The system starts with Class:

·         Class 1: Walking

·         Class 2: Hiking

·         Class 3: Steep Hiking

·         Class 4: Scrambling

·         Class 5: Climbing

·         Class 6: Aid Climbing (not widely used)

Anytime you enter a climbing gym it’s going to be a class 5 with the sub-grades attached to it (example: 5.8).

Sub-Grade.

• 5.1 - 5.6 Beginner
• 5.7 - 5.9 Intermediate
• 5.10 - 5.11 Difficult 
• 5.12 - 5.15 Expert

Suffix sometimes a suffix is added at the end, like "a"-"d."  “a” being the easiest and “d” being the hardest.  Example: 5.10a would be an easier problem than 5.10d.  You'll more likely find a suffix attached to the difficult and expert routes.

Sources:

Wikipedia.org

spadout.com

Top Roping Introduction

Here is a good video that covers the very basics of top roping outdoors.  It just gives you a basic understanding of what to expect and a quick overview of safety, gear, and good behavior when on the rock.   

Top Roping Introduction Video

Top Roping

Top roping is the most common form of climbing you’ll find in the climbing gym, and it is pretty popular for climbing outdoors.  This type of climbing will help you build more endurance than bouldering.  Top roping is less involved and easier than lead climbing, so it is ideal for beginners and first timers.  In this style of climbing, the climber is tied off on a rope with her harness, with the rope running through an anchor where the finish is, and the ropes runs to the belayer is at the bottom.  If the climber falls the belayer will prevent the climber from falling by constantly picking up slack on the rope as the climber ascends, and if the climber falls the belayer is there to save the climber from falling all way to the ground.  It’s important that the anchor is set far enough away so the rope doesn't drag against the rock and damage the rope.

Climbing in the Montains
http://www.flickr.com/photos/31477188@N02/2968613715/ 

Top roping is easier to learn than lead climbing and most other types of climbing and is a very safe method as long as the climbers have the right equipment and take the right safety precautions.  Part of those safety precautions is having someone you trust on belay.  Just because someone is a good climber doesn't mean that are good  at belaying.   The belayer can point out hand and foot holds as the climber ascends, but the most important job of the belayer is to save the climber in case of a fall.  The belayer as well as the climber should do a quick equipment check and make sure everything is secure before the ascent.  Climbing can be the most dangerous sport or the safest.  Being safe just means being alert and prepared.

Top Roping is most favored with novice climbers, and will give someone who has never climbed before a great experience and introduction to climbing.  If you’re interested in top roping click here to learn about the gear that you'll need.  Make sure you learn how to belay properly from training at your local climbing gym, or climbing instructor before you jump on belay.  And if it's your first time climbing outdoors climb with someone who has experience doing it.

Bouldering

Bouldering is the type of climbing that I do most of the time.  I enjoy the short strong and dynamic moves needed that bouldering emphasizes.  I used to think it wouldn’t be as fun, because you don’t climb that high than you do with top roping, but I actually have more fun with it.  The highest finish you'll see is 6 meters, just under 20 feet and it tends in my experience to much less.  Anything over that height will be considered “free soloing” (Free soloing is much more dangerous as you will climb up to the summit without any ropes , harness, or any protection what so ever). 

To protect you from a fall you should have crash mats, and good crash mats will protect you from falls as long as you stay under 20 feet.  You also should have spotters who will move the mats around if need be, or make sure that you fall onto the pad instead of the hard ground by putting their arms out to bump or push you onto the pad.  The great thing about bouldering is that you do not need that much equipment to do it.


All bouldering requires is you yourself, but I highly recommend climbing shoes, chalk bag, crash pad, a brush, medical tape, and the optional first aid kit.  First for climbing shoes you should be very tight (uncomfortable) fitting with edging emphasized in its design.  I prefer to have a slight downturn in the sole of the shoe making your foot shaped like a hook, and that will help in problems with overhangs.

Bouldering routes are usually referred to as “problems.”  I only have experience with the V-grade problems which are primarily used in the US.  The grading system was invented by founder John “Vermin” Sherman (the “V” in the V-grades is short for Vermin).  It starts from a V-B (B for basic) and then to a V-0, V-1 and continue going up sequentially all the way to V-16.  And every grade is noticeably harder than the last that will challenge you and your friends.

And you will make a lot of friends bouldering.  In my experience bouldering tends to be more social.  As you can have groups of people gathered around together to tackle a difficult problem.  Or you will run into different people as you go from problem to problem in the gym or field that you can meet along the way.  If you don’t have your friends with you when bouldering isn’t really that much dangerous if you do it by yourself in the field, and no more dangerous in the gym.  The opposite for any other type of climbing.  For me bouldering is the most fun, and if you enjoy strong and dynamic moves it could be a perfect fit for you too.

Climbing Holds

This video has perfect examples of what kind of holds you will encounter in a rock climbing gym, and how to hold them.

Urban Climbing

This is not something that I encourage people to do, because it’s obviously illegal and very dangerous.  I’m showing this video because it shows the versatility and freedom that you have from climbing.  Those kinds of climbing moves I have only seen in comics, movies and videogames like Assassin’s Creed.  It makes me wonder what limitations people put on themselves because they never seen something done before.  Versus what people can actually accomplish when we think outside the box and are willing to take chances.  Again I don’t encourage people to climb buildings.  If don’t have mountains there are always climbing gyms around.  Although you have to admire this guy’s ability and bravery to climb like he does.

The Benefits of Rock Climbing

Rock climbing has a lot of benefits for your physical and mental health, and just general happiness.  It’s a full body workout.  Rock climb and you’ll pretty much cover everything from cardio and aerobic health, weight loss, increased muscle tone, better mental health, improves your social life, and heck it’s even quite a thrill.  Not too many activities can boast that many benefits.

Like I said above it can be a great cardio and aerobic workout.  Struggling to get to those next holds to get the send will really get your heart pumping and those lungs huffing and puffing.  This can lead to being a great contributor to your weight loss.  If you’re really burning through those routes and problems until your heart pounds and your fingers feel like they’re made of clay you will burn a ton of calories. You can actually burn up to 500 calories an hour!  Losing weight, combined with the benefits of a cardio and the aerobic workout will give you that light energetic feeling.  Feeling light could also be a consequence of feeling stronger on a climb.  And of course it’s probably the most obvious benefit is that you will get increased muscle tone.  Climbing is not something that you will get big doing, but you will get strong.  And on top of strength you can develop great muscle endurance for holding yourself that rock for long periods of time.  Enduring this kind physical strain will build a certain kind of tenacity.

It will help give you that mental toughness, and piercing focus that will make you a tenacious person.  And it’s not exactly the same kind of mental toughness that you’ll get from martial arts, boxing, or wrestling which tend to teach people to be more aggressive.  From climbing you will get a very calm strength that you get from you being the only person that you really are competing with.  There is no one you have to beat, or defeat other than yourself and your own physical and mental weaknesses.  And mental toughness contributes to building a strong focused mind.  That focus will put you in the moment.  You will have to concentrate on every single handhold and foothold as you ascend reaching your goal.  You need to not only focus on your climb, but your buddies too.  You will have make sure that you and your partner or group set up the equipment up right or serious injury or even death can occur.  And that could be someone you’re close to.  Because life and death are on line, you will learn to focus and be in the moment.  You and your buddies depend on it.

Climbing is definitely a social sport whether you are bouldering, top roping, lead climbing; etc you will definitely meet a lot of good people.  And these are people that you will meet will have your back and you will have theirs (because no one will climb with you if you don’t).  Climbers tend to make lifelong friends especially on those tough outdoor trips where you really have to depend on each other, working hard to get the send, and seeing and experiencing everything that you can.

With all these benefits no sport really bests it. Climbing is on many a bucket list. It’s on mine, I’m doing it and I don’t think I’m going to stop anytime soon. I’m having too much fun. Having the opportunity to transcend your fears, strengthen your mental and physical health, and can give you life long bonds and experiences that you will never forget. If you’re still wondering why you should climb… just forget it and you should be wondering why you shouldn’t.