Cub Cave

There is just something about this cave and this route that seem untouched, and secluded.  Being that bolts and chalk marks are definitely visible, so there’s no denying that people have been there.  In my mind caves have always represented something that needs to be discovered and explored.  It has been found a while ago, but it’s still a great climb.  So watch Rupesh Chhagan climbing Thieving Texas Scum a 5.13.

Action Directe

You could tell that the narrator himself is moved by the climb and what when into it just to get to the top, and frankly so am I.  This route, Action Directe is widely recognized as the first 5.14d (9a), and was first climbed by Wolfgang Güllich who had created this climb.  And he invented the campus board as a form of training just to complete this route.  Campus board training is now considered a staple for climbing training that’s helps you get the job done.  This route was created over fifteen years ago and still considered one of the toughest climbs ever created. And only fifteen people have actually completed it.  Just watch the video and you'll see what I mean.  

Pro Tips – Finger Strength

Here is Jared Roth.  He seems a little aloof at first, but you can tell he’s a pro climber.  He gives an interesting perspective on developing hand strength.  And again I can’t do it justice explaining what is said in the video. Here are the bullet points on getting that iron grip.

1. Deadhang on edges
2. Capitalize on the power you already have.
3. Try to do the absurd.

Jared Roth Pro Tips - Finger Strength

Deep Water Solo Climbing - Red Bull Psicobloc Oympos

I just found this video done by Red Bull, and I think I have found another activity to put on my bucket list.  I can’t think of a better way to climb.  You’re free soloing, just over a large body of water.  That free feeling of climbing without ropes, or safeties just you and the rock.  Falling still sucks, but you won’t plunge to your death, you’ll hit the cold sting of failure when you hit the water.  Even failure here looks exhilarating.   

Deep Water Solo Climbing - Red Bull Psicobloc Oympos

Pro Tips - Slopers

Interesting video I never knew that there was so much to just holding on to a sloper.  These are definitely more advanced techniques, but expert climber Steven Jeffery lays out his five tips to sticking to them.  I could do no justice in writing out what he means, so just watch the video.

1. Get strong open handed.
2. Find the plumb line.
3. Use opposition.
4. Start movement from the lower body.
5. Fool yourself.

Pro Tips - Slopers

Street Climbing

I am gaining huge respect for the buildering community.  In this video you will see this London based parkour and street climber do some amazing things like climbing up brick walls, and finding the tiniest seams and cracks in concrete and ascend to the top of the building.  I am continually surprised and even amazed by the climbing, buildering, and parkour communities, and this is just another example.  I would be surprised if you’re not at least impressed with his abilities.  The video is off-center in the way it’s produced, but it’s definitely worth watching.  So check out this video from bobbyatopk. 

video Street Climbing by bobbyatopk

American Grading System

Bouldering

The American grading system for bouldering commonly called the V scale.  The V grade was created by John ‘Vermin’ Sherman,  and "v" in vermin is what gives the scale it's name.  Sherman created the scale while climbing in the Hueco Tanks in Texas, and for the most part his scale replaced the older B grade system.  Because Sherman’s influence in the 80's and 90's made bouldering boom in popularity, and as bouldering boomed so did his grading system.    The V grade starts at VB (B for basic) then to V0, V1, going up sequentially to V16.  This grade scale only covers difficulty, and does not factor in height, or danger.  Although, sometimes the higher bouldering problems are referred to ‘Highball’ problems to let climbers know how high it can be.

Climbing

The Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) grading system is used when climbing anything other than bouldering like, top roping, lead climbing, free climbing, etc. This grading system has been around since the 1930’s, but has grown and changed a lot as the years progressed.

The system starts with Class:

·         Class 1: Walking

·         Class 2: Hiking

·         Class 3: Steep Hiking

·         Class 4: Scrambling

·         Class 5: Climbing

·         Class 6: Aid Climbing (not widely used)

Anytime you enter a climbing gym it’s going to be a class 5 with the sub-grades attached to it (example: 5.8).

Sub-Grade.

• 5.1 - 5.6 Beginner
• 5.7 - 5.9 Intermediate
• 5.10 - 5.11 Difficult 
• 5.12 - 5.15 Expert

Suffix sometimes a suffix is added at the end, like "a"-"d."  “a” being the easiest and “d” being the hardest.  Example: 5.10a would be an easier problem than 5.10d.  You'll more likely find a suffix attached to the difficult and expert routes.

Sources:

Wikipedia.org

spadout.com

Top Roping Introduction

Here is a good video that covers the very basics of top roping outdoors.  It just gives you a basic understanding of what to expect and a quick overview of safety, gear, and good behavior when on the rock.   

Top Roping Introduction Video

Top Roping

Top roping is the most common form of climbing you’ll find in the climbing gym, and it is pretty popular for climbing outdoors.  This type of climbing will help you build more endurance than bouldering.  Top roping is less involved and easier than lead climbing, so it is ideal for beginners and first timers.  In this style of climbing, the climber is tied off on a rope with her harness, with the rope running through an anchor where the finish is, and the ropes runs to the belayer is at the bottom.  If the climber falls the belayer will prevent the climber from falling by constantly picking up slack on the rope as the climber ascends, and if the climber falls the belayer is there to save the climber from falling all way to the ground.  It’s important that the anchor is set far enough away so the rope doesn't drag against the rock and damage the rope.

Climbing in the Montains
http://www.flickr.com/photos/31477188@N02/2968613715/ 

Top roping is easier to learn than lead climbing and most other types of climbing and is a very safe method as long as the climbers have the right equipment and take the right safety precautions.  Part of those safety precautions is having someone you trust on belay.  Just because someone is a good climber doesn't mean that are good  at belaying.   The belayer can point out hand and foot holds as the climber ascends, but the most important job of the belayer is to save the climber in case of a fall.  The belayer as well as the climber should do a quick equipment check and make sure everything is secure before the ascent.  Climbing can be the most dangerous sport or the safest.  Being safe just means being alert and prepared.

Top Roping is most favored with novice climbers, and will give someone who has never climbed before a great experience and introduction to climbing.  If you’re interested in top roping click here to learn about the gear that you'll need.  Make sure you learn how to belay properly from training at your local climbing gym, or climbing instructor before you jump on belay.  And if it's your first time climbing outdoors climb with someone who has experience doing it.

Bouldering

Bouldering is the type of climbing that I do most of the time.  I enjoy the short strong and dynamic moves needed that bouldering emphasizes.  I used to think it wouldn’t be as fun, because you don’t climb that high than you do with top roping, but I actually have more fun with it.  The highest finish you'll see is 6 meters, just under 20 feet and it tends in my experience to much less.  Anything over that height will be considered “free soloing” (Free soloing is much more dangerous as you will climb up to the summit without any ropes , harness, or any protection what so ever). 

To protect you from a fall you should have crash mats, and good crash mats will protect you from falls as long as you stay under 20 feet.  You also should have spotters who will move the mats around if need be, or make sure that you fall onto the pad instead of the hard ground by putting their arms out to bump or push you onto the pad.  The great thing about bouldering is that you do not need that much equipment to do it.


All bouldering requires is you yourself, but I highly recommend climbing shoes, chalk bag, crash pad, a brush, medical tape, and the optional first aid kit.  First for climbing shoes you should be very tight (uncomfortable) fitting with edging emphasized in its design.  I prefer to have a slight downturn in the sole of the shoe making your foot shaped like a hook, and that will help in problems with overhangs.

Bouldering routes are usually referred to as “problems.”  I only have experience with the V-grade problems which are primarily used in the US.  The grading system was invented by founder John “Vermin” Sherman (the “V” in the V-grades is short for Vermin).  It starts from a V-B (B for basic) and then to a V-0, V-1 and continue going up sequentially all the way to V-16.  And every grade is noticeably harder than the last that will challenge you and your friends.

And you will make a lot of friends bouldering.  In my experience bouldering tends to be more social.  As you can have groups of people gathered around together to tackle a difficult problem.  Or you will run into different people as you go from problem to problem in the gym or field that you can meet along the way.  If you don’t have your friends with you when bouldering isn’t really that much dangerous if you do it by yourself in the field, and no more dangerous in the gym.  The opposite for any other type of climbing.  For me bouldering is the most fun, and if you enjoy strong and dynamic moves it could be a perfect fit for you too.

Climbing Holds

This video has perfect examples of what kind of holds you will encounter in a rock climbing gym, and how to hold them.

Urban Climbing

This is not something that I encourage people to do, because it’s obviously illegal and very dangerous.  I’m showing this video because it shows the versatility and freedom that you have from climbing.  Those kinds of climbing moves I have only seen in comics, movies and videogames like Assassin’s Creed.  It makes me wonder what limitations people put on themselves because they never seen something done before.  Versus what people can actually accomplish when we think outside the box and are willing to take chances.  Again I don’t encourage people to climb buildings.  If don’t have mountains there are always climbing gyms around.  Although you have to admire this guy’s ability and bravery to climb like he does.

The Benefits of Rock Climbing

Rock climbing has a lot of benefits for your physical and mental health, and just general happiness.  It’s a full body workout.  Rock climb and you’ll pretty much cover everything from cardio and aerobic health, weight loss, increased muscle tone, better mental health, improves your social life, and heck it’s even quite a thrill.  Not too many activities can boast that many benefits.

Like I said above it can be a great cardio and aerobic workout.  Struggling to get to those next holds to get the send will really get your heart pumping and those lungs huffing and puffing.  This can lead to being a great contributor to your weight loss.  If you’re really burning through those routes and problems until your heart pounds and your fingers feel like they’re made of clay you will burn a ton of calories. You can actually burn up to 500 calories an hour!  Losing weight, combined with the benefits of a cardio and the aerobic workout will give you that light energetic feeling.  Feeling light could also be a consequence of feeling stronger on a climb.  And of course it’s probably the most obvious benefit is that you will get increased muscle tone.  Climbing is not something that you will get big doing, but you will get strong.  And on top of strength you can develop great muscle endurance for holding yourself that rock for long periods of time.  Enduring this kind physical strain will build a certain kind of tenacity.

It will help give you that mental toughness, and piercing focus that will make you a tenacious person.  And it’s not exactly the same kind of mental toughness that you’ll get from martial arts, boxing, or wrestling which tend to teach people to be more aggressive.  From climbing you will get a very calm strength that you get from you being the only person that you really are competing with.  There is no one you have to beat, or defeat other than yourself and your own physical and mental weaknesses.  And mental toughness contributes to building a strong focused mind.  That focus will put you in the moment.  You will have to concentrate on every single handhold and foothold as you ascend reaching your goal.  You need to not only focus on your climb, but your buddies too.  You will have make sure that you and your partner or group set up the equipment up right or serious injury or even death can occur.  And that could be someone you’re close to.  Because life and death are on line, you will learn to focus and be in the moment.  You and your buddies depend on it.

Climbing is definitely a social sport whether you are bouldering, top roping, lead climbing; etc you will definitely meet a lot of good people.  And these are people that you will meet will have your back and you will have theirs (because no one will climb with you if you don’t).  Climbers tend to make lifelong friends especially on those tough outdoor trips where you really have to depend on each other, working hard to get the send, and seeing and experiencing everything that you can.

With all these benefits no sport really bests it. Climbing is on many a bucket list. It’s on mine, I’m doing it and I don’t think I’m going to stop anytime soon. I’m having too much fun. Having the opportunity to transcend your fears, strengthen your mental and physical health, and can give you life long bonds and experiences that you will never forget. If you’re still wondering why you should climb… just forget it and you should be wondering why you shouldn’t.

Training for climbing

This guy is in incredible shape with his climbing training.  One arm pulls ups, pull ups so powerful that he can jump with each rep, and all his general climbing moves.  It just goes to show you that you don't need a fancy exercise setup to get an effective climbing workout.  All you need is something to climb and a lot of dedication.  Health wise and strength wise I think we can all look up to his ability and attitude.

Free Solo Climbing

Free solo climbing is the purest and freest kind of climbing.  It’s probably the gutsiest thing you can ever do.  It’s just you and the rock.  I can’t imagine how it must feel to be so close to the edge of life and death, and to be so calm while doing it.  It takes a certain kind of mindset to do that, to appreciate life so much that you put it on the line where you can lose your life with every move you make.  I never did anything close to that, and I’m sure I never will.  It’s just something about that confidence, determination and skill that sets these people apart not only as climbers, but also as human beings.  I think we can all learn something from these heroes of the rock.

Taking a Step Back

Today I flashed a V2.  I’m a pretty strong V3 now, but I was at the end of the night, I was tired, and I thought this V2 would be too much for me.  It is a tough overhang climb with dynamic moves and a few months ago it would have peel me off a couple times before I would get it.  I thought I was going crumble to it, but I didn’t I found my way pretty easily.  And I didn’t appreciate that flash as much as I would if I had to work for it.  Though I did appreciate how far I have come.  After all I have worked so hard to get at my level. 

I wasn’t the gifted climber I thought I would be when I first started.  I thought I would start at the intermediate level.  That didn’t happen.  VB’s and V0’s were even tough in the beginning, so I admit I kind of sucked.  Who cares I was still having a blast.  I remember quickly moving up into V1’s and when I thought I have mastered them.  I thought V2’s should be easy for me.  It wasn’t V2’s were almost more stubborn that I am, and took a lot of effort for me to get past them.  And now I’m moving from V3’s to V4’s with V2’s as just a warm up.  And tonight I felt like I have improved a lot.  So tonight I just took a step back and realized how far I have actually come.  And I’m looking forward to see how much further I can go.

Beginner Finger Board Training

Want strong hands?  Check out this video.  It's no frills and straight to the point.  Ned Fehally he is a two time British Bouldering champ and he shows you how to train your hands using a fingerboard.  This kind of training will give you that iron grip that climbing alone may not.  So I highly recommend it.

How to Fall Properly

How to fall properly is something that you probably won’t read about for in climbing training very much, because after all you want to send not fall.  And these tips are really for bouldering which I am concentrating the most on right now, because other types of climbing have ropes and harnesses to save you.  Believe it or not I am actually known for peeling off the wall into a spectacular fall.  And I never got hurt.  Yeah I know there are crash pads to absorb the impact, but I’ve missed them more than once and hit the ground instead.  There is actually a trick to it.

The most important thing is to keep your head away from the ground.  If you’re falling face first pull your head back, and if you’re falling on your back tuck your head into your chest.  Always keep your head away from the ground no matter what angle you are when you’re falling.  Head injuries could be pretty grave, so the most important thing is to keep that noggin' for hitting the ground.

The second most important concept is the easiest to understand, but the hardest to actually do.  It is relax into the fall.  It’s especially difficult to switch from fighting through a climb, but it is another to let go and let gravity take once you've lost your hold.  It can be hard to accept that you're falling, but it's important.  So have a loose and relaxed body, it will be able to absorb the shock of a fall more than that of a tense and rigid one.

If you fall straight down you can fold your body inward.  And easier way to get it picture how Spider-Man, a traceur, or how a monkey lands, they go from a standing position and tuck into a low squat where their hands and their feet are touching the ground as they impact the goumd absorbing their energy like a spring.  You’re basically trying to displace as much energy as possible, so no one joint or body part feels the jolt of the fall.

And the last bit of advice, if you’re falling with a lot of forward momentum roll just into it.  Again the last thing that you want to do is tense up and fight the fall, you have to go with it. To do a forward roll picture yourself to be as circular as possible tuck your head in lead the fall with your hand allowing your body to follow through carrying your momentum all the way down your back into a standing position.  The purpose of a forward roll to eliminate or greatly reduce a “single point of impact.”  It’s still all about displacing that energy and redirecting that falling momentum so you do not absorb the full impact of the fall.  Explaining is difficult, so watch this video it is a great tutorial to the forward roll.  

Climber's Shoe Smell

Bad foot odor.  It’s not a huge issue, but I don’t think anyone enjoys the smell.  You can even smell some Climber’s shoes from several feet away (no pun intended).  I remember a few times when some climbers took their shoes off at the end of a long day, and their shoes literally had stunk the whole gym up.  Most climbers don’t mind too much, I’ve heard, “I don’t really care, to me it smells like climbing.” However if bad foot smell bothers you there is something you can do.

First consider buying shoes that are more natural, that shoes that are either canvass or leather.  The shoes that are synthetic tend to hold the smell in the shoe.  Everyone knows that socks are a no go, because you won’t be able to feel those footholds.  The best advice I could give is just common sense.  After you’re done climbing make sure you that you do not stuff your shoes in your gym bag and leave them the trunk in 8- degree temperatures for a week before you use them again.  Leave them in the open air so they can at least dry off.  I personally use these Cedar Sports Dry Inserts to put in your shoes.  You can find them on AllenEdmonds.com seem to do the trick for both drying the shoe and getting rid of the smell. 

After the shoes already smells there is something you can do, but it doesn’t work for everyone.  To get rid of that nasty odor you can hand wash the shoes, or throw them in the laundry machine, heck some have been known to even throw them in the dishwasher.  Most of the time you can wash your shoes, but some shoes that seem to keep that smell more than others, like the shoes with synthetic fabric.  There are those times when you just can’t seem washout the smell, so you’re left with just bearing with it or throwing them out.  And we all know how expensive shoes can be.

Preventative smell maintenance is easier than trying to wash the smell out.  So remember natural materials is better than synthetic and try the cedar inserts, or at very least leave them in the open air to breathe a little.

The Plateau

It happens whenever you dedicate yourself to an activity and seems like no matter how hard you try you just can’t seem to get any better.  You stay at the same level.  That’s what they call plateaus, and everyone hits them. 

If you were ever an athlete or you lifted weights on you’re familiar with plateaus.  For me a lot of times I feel like I was on the top of my game, I was energetic and powerful.  And when I hit that plateau, and that’s when boom I find out I’m human.  And sometimes you actually get a little worse before you get better, but if you stick your craft you’ll overcome it.  

To overcome plateaus I find it usually better to go around them rather than powering through it.  Take a step back and look at your training.  What are you missing?  Sometimes working through a plateau could be as simple as working a new route or problem or level above what you think you can do.  Even switching what you prefer to climb like switching from bouldering to Top Roping, or vise versa.  Consider changing your training regimen, or the time that you do it from early in the morning to late at night burn it out right after you climb.  Maybe you’ll find the need to lean down a bit.  It can be so hard to pin down something specific because you have so many different options to get ahead.  Keeping working on your training and you can overcome any plateau.

How to Warm Up Properly

Warming up is vital to a climber that wants to have a long climbing career without injuries.  A good warm up takes about 15-30 minutes.  The best way to get the body warmed up is to do about five minutes of cardio, five minutes or warming up the individual joints, ten minutes of climbing relatively easy routes, and ten minutes of stretching. 

Cardio is important to get oxygen to the blood and to get that blood to flow every where it needs to go.  The blood flow will help to warm up and limber your muscles.  Some climbing gyms are equipped with equipment like treadmills, stationary bikes, ellipticals which will help maximize your options.  However many gyms do not have cardio machines.  So you’ll have to use the good old fashion method of jumping rope, jumping jacks, running in place, a nice jog around the inside or outside of the building, and you’re outside a vigorous hike. 

Next you need to make sure you warm all of your individual joints.  I like to start at the top and work my way down.  Neck rotations, arm circles are great for the shoulders, windmills for the spine, hip rotations (hula hoop motion), knee rotations, and ankle rotations.

Now that your body is warm and those muscle and joints are ready climb a few routes that are a grade or two lower than your current climbing level.  Take nice easy smooth sure strides.  Make sure that the routes you pick are hard enough to give a slight challenge, but not enough that you have to really struggle.  If you’re bouldering many climbers like to go to the finish and then climb all the way down to that start.

Finally your body is warm, and your muscle memory engaged now just stretch out all those climbing muscles.  Stretch your neck out from side to side and back and forth.  Next bring one arm over your head and lean to the side to stretch the latissimus muscle (that muscle located on the back of your ribs) then do the other side.  Next bend over forward and touch your toes while keeping your back and knees straight and feet together, if this is too difficult for you, stretch as far as you can to go a little further each time you go through this routine.  This stretch is for the back and the back for your legs.  Last sit on the floor and bring your feet together as close to you as possible with the soles of your feet pressing against each other. This stretch is for the inner groin which is crucial to get those wide stances that you may need in some routes.  Each stretch should be at least ten to thirty seconds long.

Now that you’re all warmed up and stretched out give yourself a ten minute break, get some water enjoy the climb.

Hand Care

For climbers having rough skin or having torn skin is just part of the territory.  It can be tough when you first start out because newbies tend to have of much softer skin, but experienced climbers don’t ever get away from the hazard of tearing their hands up either.  There are simple steps of prevention and care to take outlined here. 

First thing calluses are your friend.  That thick dead skin is really pretty essential to staying on the rock longer.  And really the only way to get them is by climbing, whether it at the gym or on the rock.  Believe it or not in my experience you don’t get too many blisters.  Some common skin injuries include flappers, and splits.  Usually you’ll have a little warning before you get a flapper, after a few hours of challenging grips that pull on your skin you will feel some discomfort from tiny tears.  Every time I got a flapper my skin was worn out from hours of climbing and then I slipped off a challenging hold that I refused to let go.  Then the skin just tears.   If you get one it’s not really too bad you can just clean it by washing it off, put a band aid and some tape on it and continue.   No worries about healing either,and in about a week you’ll have fresh virgin skin really to be callused up.  For the prevention of flappers you use a skin balm called Climb On! which helps repair your worn skin while you sleep.

Splits occur when your skin dries out.  When climbing your skin will split because it isn’t moist enough to be pliable.  So then your skin will split under the stresses of climbing.  Probably the main culprit for drying out the skin is chalk, which is your friend on the holds but prolonged use will dry your hands right out.  The tell tale signs before you get a split is uncomfortably dry skin.  If you can feel the skin stretch on your palms just by opening them up they are too dry.  Many climbers choose not to do anything and let them be, but you can solve the dry issue with a little hand moisturizer.  I recommend Corn Huskers because it won’t soften the skin too much.  Any moisturizer will do really, but you put too much on and you’ll make your skin 

baby soft.  Baby soft is not good for climbing.

Regardless of how you wound yourself make sure you clean it properly.  After a good cleaning, I recommend Neosporin for any open wound, and cover it up with a band aid.  If your hands are pretty torn up and you still feel the itch to climb then use medical tape to protect that sore skin.  You can even use medical tape to help support your tendons, but that’s a whole other story.

It’s a little bit of a delicate balance for skin care.  If your skin is too moist and soft it will tear easily, but if it’s too dry it will crack and bleed.  Skin care isn’t something that is hard to manage, it’s just something to keep in mind and be prepared for.  So your First Aid kit should contain antiseptic, Neosporin, Band Aids, and medical tape (bottled water and soap as well if you’re not close to a sink).

Newbies Welcome

There may be some things that hold people back from trying climbing.  There are three main reasons that I’m aware of that may hold some people back.  The first is that it is a dangerous and extreme sport, the second is the fear of being awkward or out shape, and the last their age or sex.  These can all be intimidating aspects, but you shouldn't let this get in your way.

First off climbing can be the most dangerous sport or the safest.  It all depends on how prepared you are.  The best place to start is at your nearest climbing gym.  Here you can find the proper training.  Many places have equipment to buy, and you can schmooze with the most experienced climbers and pick their brains.  Who knows you could even make a few friends with this adventurous class of people.  Climbing gyms are great to start because they are built with safety in mind; from ropes, to bolts, harnesses, and foamy crash pads.  The in-house belay classes that most gyms provide will get you comfortable with being on the rope.  When you feel like you’re prepared to go out on the actual rock, make sure you spend the money to get the right equipment, and the safest equipment.  “Bomb proof” is a good term that when climbers prepare their gear.

If you’re afraid of being awkward or too out of shape to climb, don’t be. Climbers are actually some of the nicest people you’ll meet.  And besides everybody looks a little awkward their first time, no matter how athletic they are.  You might catch the short end of a friendly joke, but it its rare to find a judgmental climber-I think you'll find that climbers just love what they do.  And don’t worry about if you’re in good enough shape, you’ll get better as you climb, and improving your physical condition should be one of your goals.  You won’t have to worry about the meat heads with big egos or gyms rats that you find in many other types of gyms.

If age or sex is keeping you back, don’t let it.  There are many older people that have gravitated to the sport.  Longer warm ups and less dynamic moves is the only limitation that you have to work with.  And no problem ladies climbing is another sport where women can be just as good as good and often better than the men.  So now that you’re excuses are destroyed.  Climb on!

Camaraderie

When you go climbing it always pays to have good people with you.  It doesn’t matter if you’re bouldering, top roping, or lead climbing.  Obviously when you fall on top roping or lead climbing you have that guy or girl on belay to make sure you don’t fall to your death or at least save you from a major injury.  Or when you’re bouldering and people from the group can move those crash pads for you as you're making your way on a long traverse, and someone standing there with their hands out make sure if you peel off you fall on to a big cushion of foam instead of the hard ground.  You're having that tough route or problem your buddies can point out a hold you missed, teach you a new technique, or run by a whole new beta you never considered.  It’s also the camaraderie, and the competitive nature that friends can give when you’re testing your boundaries.  Sometimes it's good to climb by yourself, but 95% climbing is a much more a social sport.  


If you’re new and you’re having trouble getting your friends to climb with you or if you're experienced and you’re traveling in a new area I have a web site that you can check out.  I found http://www.climbfind.com to be a pretty good web site to find someone to climb with.  It's quick to sign up.  And no I’m not receiving any money from this site, but I thought it was good to mention to find some new climbing buddies.

Attitude is Everything

The thing that stands out to me the most is the mental attitude and toughness that you have to have in order to extra edge to push to the finish.  I think we all have met that climber who seems to be able to climb beyond the level that they should be able to, and they do it consistently.  It seems that they have that mentality that pushes them way beyond what you think they should be able to do, what people normally can do.  Everyone has fear, doubts, and fatigue, but it’s that mental toughness they have tapped into that I want to find for myself.  That’s the mentality that keeps you for that keeps you reaching for that next hold.  That mental determination and courage to push beyond what you thought you could do.  For me that’s what climbing is all about.  It’s having fun and getting better not only physically but mentally too.

The Little Monster

Everyone has had that odd or tough climb that's that monster that you can't seem to get no matter how hard you try.  That's exactly when you dig in and keep pushing to get it, and that's part of a good climbing training regimen climbing those tough problems.  I'm relatively new to the game, and I had this really tough V3.  In this climb at the start there’s a two handed hold and a left foot hold.  Then you switch foot where your right is on just a chip, reach to your left hand and the way the hand is it positions you horizontally as you put your right foot on the start and the left is a smear.  That’s when your reach overhead with your right hand and grab the handhold overhead on a pyramid shape feature and your left hand on the feature itself.  You then hook your left foot on one hold you just left and the other is still resting against the start.  From here is the hard part, you then you swing your lower body backwards to get the next foothold while your upper body hangs on.  Finally, if you make it that far, throw up with right and then the left with the finish.  It's short climb, but the horizontal hang with the swing was a completely new concept for me, and it was climb where you had to have good positioning, good hand strength, and good core strength to make it through that swing.  For me I think my sticking point was my finger strength and I had some flexibility issues to get that proper positioning with the toe hook as I’m holding on the feature.  However my core is fairly strong, but due to that poor positioning I couldn't activate those core muscles to finish the climb.  It wasn't a climb that I worked intensely everyday to get, but occasionally I’d try it and fail miserably every time.

It's the first V3 that I've tried, and it was one of the last V3's that I had to get, but I finally got it.  One day, it was the climb I worked on it exclusively, that day I failed again and again I failed miserably, until I had to leave.  Then next time I got to the gym I jumped on it determined to get it, and just needed to get it, especially since my friend flashed it two minutes before I got there.  For some reason just I knew I had it.  I started it like I normally do, reached for the next hold, got into position by putting my right hand on the hold on the feature, then my left hand on the feature itself, and then toe hooked.  I made sure my positioning was perfect before I released the toe hook and swung over holding on for dear life as I scrambled to the next foot hold with my left foot.  I started to pull up to the finish and almost lost it, but I sured my position then I threw up and then finished.  It felt great.  I finally slayed this little monster that kept me down for a couple of months.  The climb in total was probably done in under ten seconds.  Just one of those short, but tough bouldering missions you have to get.