Effective Climbing Training

Effective Climbing Training

Complete Training Manual for Any Climber

I peeled off again falling onto the mat. I lay there sprawled wondering if I can ever get better. I’m in pretty good shape and strong, but V1 was my top gear. I even had to fight for the easy routes. I’m watching this guy crush a V7 like a circus monkey. I wanted to do that. I wanted to climb as well as I can walk.

Climbing is exactly what you need to do to get better at climbing (it will take some time), but if you need to get better faster you have to train for it. Climbing just by itself will often lead to huge plateaus. After hitting that road block I researched the internet to see if I could any information that would help me get better. And that’s when I found Brian West’s “Climbing to the Top.”

Brain West was just like me, he struggled and struggled to get better. First he talked to climbers at the gym, and all they said was “climb,” and that didn’t help him much. Everything changed when he got a hold of experts, and they taught him what he was doing wrong and what he should do RIGHT! This book is different because West went through the tough growing pains of not being a naturally good climber like I have. And most importantly he overcame them all with the right kind of climbing training. Look at his amazing eBook and you can too.

Rock Climbing Ebook Image

You will learn:

· A complete training program for your favorite style of climbing.

· 3 Key Principles to create any training program, without falling flat.

· 7 Secrets to climbing smart and effectively.

· Increase your pull strength by 10-30% fast.

· A proven method to increase your flexibility, and step-by-step process of keeping yourself injury free.

· Design and fine tune your diet to climb your absolute best.

Click Here To Order

I know that you may have some concerns about this eBook. I know I did, so allow me to address them. The first thing that I noticed is the book contained no pictures. After reading it though I realized that I already know the exercises described, I didn’t need pictures to understand it. Plus his descriptions are well written. Mr. West also didn’t want to overload your computer with megabytes of information that pics commonly take up. Not only that his nearest competitor has no pics either and Brian’s eBook is half the price.

Another thing I was worried about was, is it accurate? I’ve personally used it and my climbing ability has already jumped forward in both technique and personal strength. If you follow Brian’s advice you will become a much better climber, and fast! You will progress three grades better just like the book says.

And if you’re still having reservations you have the 60 day ‘Can’t Lose’ money back guarantee. Here’s what Brian says:

60 Day "Can't Lose" Guarantee

Satisfaction Guaranteed

If in the next 60 days you don't improve your climbing by 3-7 grades...if other rock climbers don't beg you to share your rock climbing training secerts...if your friends and family don't corner you and DEMAND to know what your 'secret' is for quickly becoming a better stronger rock climber...

...I'll buy the Training for Rock Climbing Course back from you and...

You Can Keep The Training for Rock Climbing Course, My Exact Training Program and the other Bonus Reports Just For Your Trouble!


If you’re still having reservations read what Tim Jenkins a customer and enthusiastic reader of the eBook.

“All I can say is THANK YOU! This info is priceless... In less than 1 week after learning about your training and climbing system, I improved my climbing and strength! I'm so surprised (I mean shocked!) at how unbelievably easy this is and I can't wait to try out the other techniques and training ideas. Now I wonder why didn't someone tell me about this sooner?"

- TIM JENKINS

With this order you will be the talk of the climbing gym and the rock alike. If you follow Brian’s Advice you will also feel as good as you look on the wall all day long. Today you could begin your journey of learning to master climbing in the comfort of your own home in 15 minutes or less.

Click Here To Order

The Insiders

The Insiders: A Great Introduction to Climbing


The Insiders

Video's Creators: BigUpProductions

Saturday, June 2, 2012

The Campus Board

Campus board training is more for advanced climbers than it is for beginners.  It is a great resource to build that extra power, and strength that you need for climbing.    This type of training was invented by Wolfgang Güllich, one of the best sports climbers in history.  The name “Campus” comes from a gym he trained at in Nurnberg, Germany called “The Campus Center.”  He had come up with a new method of training just to send a route named Action Directe that required hand strength that no one in the world had at that time.  The climb required that he make considerable gains in both strength and power.  



Climbing up the walls again

 The Action Directe route requires the climber to start with a shallow one finger hold and dyno off of that into another one finger hold.  Güllich's original sequence was a series of 16 holds that featured mostly one fingered and two fingered holds.  Words can fall short of how hard this climb is, so check out this video of Iker Pou's send on this route.  And you’ll get an idea why the campus board was invented, and why most people recommend it only for advanced climbers.  Here’s another video that is good for climbers who are just starting out as beginners and want to learn to campus.



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Rock Climbing from Wikipedia


Rock climbing
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Climbers on "Valkyrie" at the Roaches,UK
Rock climbing is an activity in which participants climb up, down or across natural rock formations or artificial rock walls. The goal is to reach the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a pre-defined route without falling. Rock climbing competitions have objectives of completing the route in the quickest possible time or the farthest along an ever increasingly harder route. Rock climbing is similar to scrambling (another activity involving the scaling of hills and similar formations), but climbing is generally differentiated by its sustained use of hands to support the climber's weight as well as to provide balance.
Rock climbing is a physically and mentally demanding sport, one that often tests a climber's strength, endurance, agility and balance along with mental control. It can be a dangerous sport and knowledge of proper climbing techniques and usage of specialized climbing equipment is crucial for the safe completion of routes. Because of the wide range and variety of rock formations around the world, rock climbing has been separated into several different styles and sub-disciplines.[1] While not an Olympic event, rock climbing is recognized by the International Olympic Committee as a sport.


[edit]History

Climbing in Germany, ca. 1965. Note the lack of intermediate protection points & the potentially deadly tie-in method,, which demonstrate the maxim of the day, "The leader must not fall".
Although rock climbing was an important component of Victorian mountaineering in the Alps, it is generally thought that the sport of rock climbing began in the last quarter of the nineteenth century in various parts of Europe. Rock climbing evolved gradually from an alpine necessity to a distinct athletic activity.
Aid climbing (climbing using equipment that acts as artificial hand- or footholds) became popular during the period 1920 - 1960, leading to ascents in the Alpsand in Yosemite Valley that were considered impossible without such means. However, climbing techniques, equipment and ethical considerations have evolved steadily. Today, free climbing (climbing on holds made entirely of natural rock, using gear solely for protection and not for upward movement) is the most popular form of the sport. Free climbing has since been divided into several sub-styles of climbing dependent on belay configuration (described below).
Over time, grading systems have also been created in order to more accurately compare the relative difficulties of climbs.


[edit]Rock climbing basics
At its most basic, rock climbing involves climbing a route with one's own hands and feet and little more than a cushioned bouldering pad in the way of protection. This style of climbing is referred to as bouldering, since the relevant routes are usually found on boulders no more than 10 to 15 feet (3.0 to 4.6 m) tall.
As routes get higher off the ground, the increased risk of life-threatening injuries necessitates additional safety measures. A variety of specialized climbing techniques and climbing equipment exists to provide that safety. Climbers will usually work in pairs and utilize a system of ropes and anchors designed to catch falls. Ropes and anchors can be configured differently to suit many styles of climbing, and roped climbing is thus divided into further sub-types that vary based on how their belay systems are set up. Generally speaking, beginners will start with top roping and/or easy bouldering and work their way up to lead climbing and beyond.


[edit]Top roping
In top roping, an anchor is set up at the summit of a route prior to the start of a climb. Rope is run through the anchor; one end attaches to the climber and the other to the belayer, who keeps the rope taut during the climb and prevents long falls. This type of climbing is widely regarded as the safest type of climbing, with the lowest chance of injury.


[edit]Lead climbing

Leader belays the second on Illusion Dweller in Joshua Tree National Park, USA
In lead climbing, one person, called the "leader", will climb from the ground up with rope directly attached to his harness,and not through a top anchor. The second person, "belays" the leader by feeding out enough rope to allow upward progression without undue slack. As the leader progresses he clips the rope through intermediate points of protection such as active cams, or passive protection such as nuts; this limits the length of a potential fall. The leader also may clip into pre-drilled bolts.
Because the climbing rope is of a fixed length, the leader can only climb a certain distance. Thus longer routes are broken up into several "pitches"; this is called "multi-pitching". At the top of a pitch, the "leader" sets up an anchor and then belays the "second" up to the anchor; as the "second" follows the route taken by the "leader," the second removes the equipment placed along the way in order to use it again on the next "pitch." Once both are at the anchor, the "leader" begins climbing the next pitch and so on until the top is reached.
In either case, upon completion of a route, climbers can walk back down if an alternate descent path exists, or rappel (abseil) down with the rope.


[edit]Grading systems
Climbing communities in many countries and regions have developed their own rating systems for routes. Ratings (or "grades") record and communicate consensus appraisals of difficulty. Hence, there may be occasional disagreements arising from physiological or stylistic differences among climbers. The ratings take into account multiple factors affecting a route, such as the slope of the ascent, the quantity and quality of available handholds, the distance between holds, ease of placing protection and whether advanced technical maneuvers are required. Whilst height of a route is generally not considered a factor, a long series of sustained hard moves will often merit a higher grade than a single move of the same technical difficulty. The typical rating system for top-roping and lead climbing is from 5.2-5.15b. There can be debate on the difficulty rating. Typically the rating for the hardest move on the wall will be the rating for the whole climb, although sometimes climbs are rated for endurance factor. For example, a climb can have multiple 5.11 moves with no rests and thus be rated 5.12. The most commonly used rating systems in the US are the Yosemite Decimal System and the "V" bouldering grade.


[edit]Basic terms and techniques
As climbing routes or problems increase in difficulty, climbers learn to develop skills that help them complete the climbs clean. There are several techniques for hands and feet as well as terms for motions that combine the two. For indoor gyms, route setters visualize and create routes for climbers, placing different kinds of holds in specific parts of the wall at particular angles because they intend climbers to use certain techniques.[2]


[edit]Footing techniques
Edging
when a climber uses the inside of the foot to stand firmly on a foothold
Backstepping
when a climber uses the outside of the foot to stand on a foothold, while the side of the body faces the wall
Smearing
when a climber places the foot directly on the wall or rock without using any footholds
Heel hooking
when a climber uses the heel to press down on a foothold, usually at or near chest level
Toe hooking
when a climber uses the toe to press down on a foothold commonly on underclings (ceilings)


[edit]Hand techniques
Crimp
when a climber's hand can grip a hold using mainly finger strength, specifically the first joint in the fingers and also the second finger joint
Open hand grip
similar to crimping but with an open hand.
Gaston
when a climber uses a handhold from the side to achieve a better grip. Elbows point out
Jug
when a climber can grip a hold with the most ease and use all fingers and forearm strength. Commonly found on beginner level climbs
Pinching
when a climber must pinch a (usually smaller) hold by using the thumb and fingers to pinch the sides
Side pull
basically crimping but the hold is positioned to the side of a climber and the climber must pull sideways instead of upwards.
Sloper
climbers must use an open hand (like palming a basketball) to grab on to holds that have little to no difference in surface texture


[edit]Motions and movements
Crossing
when a climber crosses one hand/arm over the other to reach a hold
Hand-foot match
when a climber places a hand and a foot on the same hold at the same time
High stepping
when a climber must take a large step to reach a foothold
Mantle
pushing in an upward motion on a hold in a similar fashion one might use to push himself/herself out of a pool from the deep end. Climbers push up rather than pulling in this move
Foot switch
when a climber must put one foot on the hold the other foot is currently on, he or she must slowly slip the correct foot over the incorrect foot to continue the climb
Match
when a climber places both hands on the same hold


[edit]Climbing environments
Climbs can occur either outdoors on varying types of rock or indoors on specialized climbing walls. Outdoors, climbs usually take place on sunny days when the holds are dry and provide the best grip, but climbers can also attempt to climb at night or in adverse weather conditions if they have the proper training and equipment. However, night climbing or climbing in adverse weather conditions will increase the difficulty and danger on any climbing route.


[edit]Styles of rock climbing

Top roping Balthazar (12), in the Morialta Conservation Park near Adelaide, South Australia. Top roping is the most accessible style of climbing for beginners.
Main article: Climbing styles
Most of the climbing done in modern times is considered free climbing—climbing using one's own physical strength, with equipment used solely as protection and not as support—as opposed to aid climbing, the gear-dependent form of climbing that was dominant in the sport's earlier days. Free climbing is typically divided into several styles that differ from one another depending on the equipment used and the configurations of their belay, rope and anchor systems, or the lack thereof.
  • Aid climbing – Still the most popular method of climbing big walls. Progress is accomplished by repeatedly placing and weighting gear which is used directly to aid ascent and enhance safety.
  • Free climbing – The most commonly used method to ascend climbs refers to climbs where the climber's own physical strength and skill are relied on to accomplish the climb. Free climbing may rely on top rope belay systems, or on lead climbing to establish protection and the belay stations. Anchors, ropes and protection are used to back up the climber and are passive as opposed to active ascending aids. Subtypes of free climbing are trad climbingand sport climbing. Free climbing is generally done as "clean lead" meaning no pitons or pins are used as protection.[3]
  • Traditional climbing – Traditional or trad climbing involves rock climbing routes in which protection against falls is placed by the climber while ascending. Gear is used to protect against falls but not to aid the ascent directly.
  • Sport climbing – Unlike traditional rock climbing, sport climbing involves the use of protection (bolts) or permanent anchors which are attached to the rock walls.
  • Bouldering – Climbing on short, low routes without the use of the safety rope that is typical of most other styles. Protection, if used at all, typically consists of a cushioned bouldering pad below the route and/or a spotter, a person who watches from below and directs the fall of the climber away from hazardous areas. Bouldering may be an arena for intense and relatively safe competition, resulting in exceptionally high difficulty standards.
  • Free soloing (not to be confused with free climbing) is single-person climbing without the use of any rope or protection system whatsoever. If a fall occurs and the climber is not over water (as in the case of deep water soloing), the climber is likely to be killed or seriously injured. Though technically similar to bouldering, free solo climbing typically refers to routes that are far taller and/or far more lethal than bouldering. The term "highball" is used to refer to climbing on the boundary between soloing and bouldering, where what is usually climbed as a boulder problem may be high enough for a fall to cause serious injury and hence could also be considered to be a free solo.

  • A climber free soloing at Red Rock Canyon, Nevada, USA

    Indoor Climbing
  • Indoor climbing – Permits climbing in all types of weather and at all times of day. Used for improving climbing skills and techniques.
  • Deep-water soloing – Similar to free soloing in that the climber is unprotected and without a rope, but different in that if the climber falls, it is into deep water instead of on to the ground.
  • Rope soloing – Solo climbing with a rope secured at the beginning of the climb allowing a climber to self-belay as they advance. Once the pitch is completed the soloist must descend the rope to retrieve their gear, and then reclimb the pitch. This form of climbing can be conducted free or as a form of aid climbing.
  • Simul climbing – When two climbers move at the same time. The pseudo-lead climber places gear that the pseudo-follower collects. When the leader runs low on gear they construct a belay station where the follower can join them to exchange gear. The stronger climber is often the pseudo-follower since a fall by the follower would pull the leader from below towards the last piece of gear—a potential devastating fall for the leader. In contrast, a fall from the leader would pull the follower from above, resulting in a less serious fall. Most speed ascents involve some form of simul climbing but may also include sections of standard free climbing and the use of placed gear for advancement (i.e. partial aid or pulling on gear).

  • Top roping.
  • Top roping – Climbing with the protection of a rope that's already suspended through an anchor (or also known as a "top rope system") at the top of a route. A belayer controls the rope, keeping it taut and preventing long falls. Most Indoor climbing or "gym climbing" is top roping on indoor purpose-madeclimbing walls although it is also common to boulder and sport climb indoors. Gym climbing is used as training for outside climbing, but some climb indoors exclusively. Due to its reduced risk, most beginners are introduced to climbing through top-roping.

  • [edit]Access to climbing areas


    [edit]Indigenous culture considerations
    Some areas that are popular for climbing, for example in the US and Australia, are also sacred places for indigenous peoples. Many such indigenous people would prefer that climbers not climb these sacred places and have made this information well-known to climbers. A well known example is the rock formation that Americans have named Devils Tower National Monument.[4] Native American cultural concerns also led to complete climbing closures at Cave Rock atLake Tahoe,[5] Monument Valley, Shiprock and Canyon de Chelly.[6]
    Climbing activities can sometimes encroach on rock art sites created by various Native American cultures and early European explorers and settlers. The potential threat to these resources has led to climbing restrictions and closures in places like Hueco Tanks, Texas,[7] and portions of City of Rocks National Reserve, Idaho.[8]
    In Australia, the monolith Uluru (Ayers Rock) is sacred to local indigenous communities and climbing is banned on anything but the established ascent route(and even then climbing is discouraged).
    Indigenous peoples are not the only cultures that object to climbing on certain rock formations. Professional climber Dean Potter kicked off a major controversy when he ignored long-accepted convention to scale Delicate Arch in 2006, resulting in strict new climbing regulation in Arches National Park.[9]


    [edit]Climbing on private property
    Many significant rock outcrops exist on private land. Some people within the rock climbing community have been guilty of trespassing in many cases, often after land ownership transfers and previous access permission is withdrawn. In the U.S. the climbing community responded to access closures by forming theAccess Fund. This is an "advocacy organization that keeps U.S. climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment. Five core programs support the mission on national and local levels: public policy, stewardship and conservation (including grants), grassroots activism, climber education and land acquisition."[10] In the U.K. the British Mountaineering Council represents climbers and their interest of public access to crack, cliffs and boulders.


    [edit]Environmental impact
    Although many climbers adhere to "minimal impact" and "leave no trace" practices, rock climbing is sometimes damaging to the environment. Common environmental damages include: soil erosion, chalk accumulation, litter, abandoned bolts and ropes, human excrement, introduction of foreign plants through seeds on shoes and clothing and damage to native plant species, especially those growing in cracks and on ledges as these are often intentionally removed during new route development through a process commonly referred to as cleaning.
    Clean climbing is a style of rock climbing which seeks to minimize some of the aesthetically damaging side effects of some techniques used in trad climbingand more often, aid climbing by avoiding using equipment such as pitons, which damage rock.
    Climbing can also interfere with raptor nesting, since the two activities often take place on the same precipitous cliffs. Many climbing area land managersinstitute nesting season closures of cliffs known to be used by protected birds of prey like eagles, falcons and osprey.[11]
    Many non-climbers also object to the appearance of climbing chalk marks, anchors, bolts and slings on visible cliffs. Since these features are small, visual impacts can be mitigated through the selection of neutral, rock-matching colors for bolt hangers, webbing and chalk.


    [edit]Vandalism
    Vandalism created by non-climbers is often mistakenly attributed to the climbing population, driving the implementation of new climbing restrictions.[12]
    The most significant form of vandalism directly attributable to rock climbers is alteration of the climbing surface to render it more non-climber-friendly and/or slippery.
    With the advent of hard, bolted sport climbing in the 1980s, many routes were "chipped" and "glued" to provide additional features, allowing them to be climbed at the standard of the day. This attitude quickly changed as the safer sport climbing technique allowed climbers to push hard without much risk, causing the formerly more-or-less fixed grades to steadily rise. Altering routes began to be seen as limiting and pointless.
    Unlike trad climbing which generally uses protection only as a backup in case of falls, some forms of climbing—like sport climbing, canyoneering or, especially, aid climbing—rely heavily on artificial protection to advance, either by frequent falls or by directly pulling on the gear. Often these types of climbing involve multiple drilled holes in which to place temporary bolts and rivets, but in recent years an emphasis on clean techniques has grown.
    Today, the charge of vandalism in climbing is more often a disagreement about the appropriateness of drilling and placing permanent bolts and other anchors. Typically in the USA, the first ascensionists decide where to place protection on a new route and later climbers are supposed to live with these choices. This can cause friction and retro-bolting when the route is perceived to be dangerous to climbers who actually lead at the grade of the climb, since the first ascensionists often lead at a higher grade and therefore don't require as much protection. Failing to properly design a new route at its grade is considered arrogant and very poor form. Even in strongholds of rock-climbing tradition like Yosemite National Park, many routes are being gradually upgraded to safer standards of protection.


    [edit]BASE jumping
    A few climbers, most prominently Dean Potter, are experimenting with taking small parachutes on long climbs. This is also known as Free Basing. BASE jumping is banned in some areas known for their rock climbing, notably Yosemite National Park.


    [edit]Commercial applications
    Skilled rock climbers have been employed in building a work of sculpture entitled Big Bambú atop the Metropolitan Museum of Art Roof Garden [13] and in repairing wind turbines.


    See also
  • Lists and glossaries
  • Related activities
  • Parkour (French technique of passing obstacles efficiently)
  • Salto del pastor (aboriginal rock gymnastic sport of Canary Islands)
  • Other

  • [edit]References
  • ^ Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills, Swan Hill Press; 6th Revised edition edition (14 Oct 1997) ISBN 1840370017 ISBN 978-1840370010
  • ^ Traditional Lead Climbing: A Rock ... - Google Books. Books.google.com. Retrieved 2010-12-23.
  • ^ Big Bambu; April 27, 2010—October 31, 2010, Metropolitan Museum of Art Press Release,

  • [edit]Further reading
  • Long, John (1998). How to Rock Climb! (How to Rock Climb Series). Helena, Mont: Falcon. ISBN 1-57540-114-2.